Foarte Redus De Combustibil Economie

**vitriol** · 24 September 2012, 13:21

Please try to write in english, google translate is not a accurate method and we can't help you if we don't understend exactly the details.

**keanu_reeves** · 25 September 2012, 14:18

well the original text was

We have a Logan DLE 1.5 DCi in the family. It used to return 20-27 kmpl on Diesel during its early ownership days. After 3rd service, the FE reduced and the vibrations of the engine increased suddenly. This was about 3 years back.

We tried all sorts of solutions to fix the vibrations and since then they have visibly reduced. But the FE remains abysmally low at about 9-10kmpl. Since the usage of the car has been city only, it barely runs ~700-800km / month. I usually drive the car have learnt to live with this low FE figure and was not even calculating how much FE the car was returning. But recently, I happened to check the FE (after the Diesel price hike) and realized that it returned a partly 9.5kmpl. = 10.5 ltrs for 100 km

There is no trouble with power delivery or acceleration. None of the parameters of ECU show any fault. The only *different* bit I could deduce was a whistling noise when the turbo spools up. But then this noise has been with us since day one when the car used to return 20-25+ kmpl. 5 to 4 ltrs per 100 km

1: Current odo reading is 47200km car is 2007 model
2: No starting problems. Starts in 1 crank always.
3: Smoke is colorless while idling, mild black smoke under high acceleration.
4: pick-up / acceleration. Normal as other Logans which return double FE.
5: Fuel Economy taken by Tankfull method
6: No error codes after resetting the ECU. Don't remember error codes prior to reseting. Reset was done in Sept. 2010. The car is not in Limp mode. I can rev all the way till 4-5k. Don't remember how much because I rarely take it over 3k.

**einstein1984** · 25 September 2012, 16:56

Sounds like a lack of air, check for blown air hose or difference in mannifold pressure under high engine load. Air filter should be clean, EGR valve neat and not blocked open by soot.

**dani030669** · 25 September 2012, 17:49

for cleaning EGR valve take a look at this film

Curățare valva EGR

http://www.tutorialelogan.ro/2010/03/curatare-valva-egr.html

Am folosit o șurubelniță dreaptă, o cheie de 10 inelară și o tubulară de 10. După ce am dat jos EGR-ul, am curățat cu benzină și cârpe. În...

**keanu_reeves** · 27 September 2012, 09:53

Hey there, I now remembered a very important detail.

Back in September 2008, this car was flooded till the height of the tyre, the water level was so low that seat base was not submerged completely. Also, ECU was not submerged in the flood water. We did not start the car after this happened and it was then towed to the Service center by breakdown assistance service. They kept the car for 1 week, cleaned it thoroughly in and out (as per what they say) and returned it with the car performing (in acceleration) as well as the car prior to flooding. But that was also when we first started noticing reduced fuel economy. Prior to floods it used to be 3.6 to 5l/100km. Immediately after the floods, it used to be 6-7 l/100km. This aspect was checked at the Service center but the service center made excuses and did not fix it at the time. Since we were pretty much okay (but not happy) with this particular figure after follow up for over 1 year, we got fed up and stopped complaining.

Could this aforementioned event have led to some dirt being stuck somewhere in the car which has been fouling with the Fuel economy all these years?

As per the Service center, they clean the EGR valve at every service and we even get charged for it everytime. The last time this happened was just 2500km back. In the meantime, I will be checking the EGR valve and the other pipes myself over the weekend.

**keanu_reeves** · 30 September 2012, 09:05

Hello Friends

we cleaned the EGR Valve again checked the ECU. the Service Center is ready to do some other tests also to check the fuel efficiency.

but It is a really long weekend Holiday till Wednesday. will get back to you after after I get any other important

**keanu_reeves** · 4 October 2012, 07:53

@Dani, We reconfirmed with the SVC and rechecked the EGR valve manually. It was always clean. EGR valve on my car gets cleaned by removing everything practically every 4k km.

Also we did a proper mileage run yesterday in presence of 2 Service center chaps and 1 engineer from M&M.

Filled up the tank right upto the brim at the same filling station with the car parked in the exact same spot and we did this exercise thrice.

4 people in the car, 100% Highway drive with speeds varying between 100-120 kmph in top gear. 47km in 2.3 liters OR 4.9l/100km.

2 people in the car, 100% city drive with speeds varying between 25-50 in 3rd-4th gear, 50 seconds of idling overall. 15km in 1.52 liters or 10.1l/100km.

Before doing this particular exercise, I had used the car for a week after filling to the brim. Totally did 408km with 20km on highway and rest 388 km inside city conditions. Before starting the aforementioned mileage run, the tank was topped up with 37.7 liters of Diesel. 408 km in 37.7l comes to 9.24l/100km.

**dani030669** · 4 October 2012, 09:02

have you checked air pressure to intake manifold? it must be arround 0.8 bar for dci 48kW,
have you tried to keep engine arround 2000rpm? (in my experience from 50kph to 65kph fuel consumption is lower in 3rd gear than in 4th gear because engine runs more efficient from 2000 to 2500 rpm than under slower revs)
also FE indicated on AVG speed under 20Kph on my car exceeds 7l/100km, 6.5l/100km for 22 kph, 6l/100k for AVG speed 28kph, and is equal to factory's declared urban consumption (5.3l/100km) at AVG speed of 35 kph. (all vallues was recorded with AC on)
idle consumption is 0.4-0.6 l/h depending on AC status

**keanu_reeves** · 4 October 2012, 10:23

I was running between 2000-2300 on the highway and 1500-2000 RPM in the city. All data with AC on.

Can we check historic Intake Manifold pressure data from ECU (By connecting laptop) or do we need OBDII to check while the car is on the move?

**dani030669** · 4 October 2012, 11:34

i'm not sure if DCM stores any data excepting faults. you can store data on the laptop via OBD when engine is runing and read them later. if pressure is under 0.8 bar you may adjust it by changing position of nuts on wastegate control rod.
video: http://www.tutorialelogan.ro/2010/01...an-diesel.html
maximum extension (whitout risk) is 6 spins

**keanu_reeves** · 13 October 2012, 12:19

Update: I got myself a Bluetooth OBD2 connector and used both Android Torque app and Laptop to connect it.

It doesn't work with Logan. But it works very well with my Honda Civic. So connector is not faulty. When I connect it with Logan, I get the error "ECU not communicating. Make sure your vehicle ignition is on." So, we have yet again hit a dead end.

Is there any other way to check the intake manifold pressure? Has anyone used Bluetooth OBD2 on Logan?

@Moderator: Sorry, I didn't know that quoting posts I am replying to was against the rules. :s

Update 2: The bluetooth OBD2 doesn't work on Mahindra Renault Logan, but it works on the mechanically and visually identical re-badged Logan, i.e., Mahindra Verito.

Checked Intake Manifold pressure using the official software provided by Renault, it was 900 mbar (= 0.9 bar)

Can anybody guide me what these parameters in this pic mean?

Why is there a reading on reset number 2 injector no 1 and injector no 2 and the reading is same on the injector 3 and 4.

Foarte Redus De Combustibil Economie

Foarte Redus De Combustibil Economie

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment